Later in the year fans needn''t stop spinning at the legbathtubs end of summer. Wintertime energy savings are possible by reversing the direction of the fan blades--from counterclockwise to clockwise, when seen from below--to force the air upward. Moving in this direction and set at low speed, a fan will gently push hot, trapped ceiling air to the walls and down toward the floor, a process called heat reclamation. Since the air isn''t blown forcefully downward, you won''t feel draftiness or chill. Manufacturers report savings of up to 10 percent on winter heating bills through heat reclamation. Size and speed Choosing a fan that suits the size of the room is important for energy savings and comfort. Fans are measured by blade span, with the 52-inch five-bladed fan being the most common: It is appropriate for rooms up to 400 square feet. The 44-inch fan will adequately serve rooms up to 225 square feet; the 42-inch works for rooms up to 144 square feet; the 36-inch fan is for rooms of 100 square feet or less. Fan motors can be set at low, medium, or high speed.

fans can dramatically reduce air-conditioning costs by increasing the speed with which your body loses heat: The greater the air movement, the cooler you''ll feel. A fan will increase the effect of any air conditioner--even one on a moderate setting--keeping you much cooler. Summer breeze Industry experts'' advice: Set your air conditioner to 780, then turn on fans to increase the chill. For every degree you raise your thermostat, you''ll reduce your air-conditioning bill by 3 to 5 percent. Thus, if you set your thermostat 6[degrees] higher than usual, you can anticipate a reduction of up to 30 percent in air-conditioning costs. Add a fan, and although your home won''t be any cooler, you''ll feel cooler due to the air movement. A ceiling fan running at full speed costs the same as lighting a 100-watt incandescent bulb for the same period. Central air-conditioning consumes from 50 to 60 times as much electrical energy. Use of fans alone can produce welcome savings.

Glass block comes in 8-in. and 6-in. squares and 4 x 8-in. half-block rectangles. You''ll need to choose between real mortar grout joints and clear silicone-joined blocks. We chose the silicone system because we liked the clean, uninterrupted look. Whichever way you go, buy the panel preassembled and banded together as one unit, ready legbathtubs to set into the opening. Remember that it''s easy to make the opening smaller by using furring, but it can be an ugly task to make it bigger. When going with mortar-grouted panels, figure each block is 8 in. wide, then add 1/4 in. to both the total height and width. If you''re ordering silicone-joined blocks, figure each block at 7-3/4 in. and don''t add the extra 1/4 in. The wall behind the toilet can be almost any height. For a standard toilet height of 15 in., make the wall a minimum height of 43 in. If you''d like a higher toilet, make the wall that much higher. Or, make the wall go all the way to the ceiling. We built a short wall to conserve space and to create a shelf and a mirror alcove. The wall at the opposite end of the shower can be any height as well. We made it the same height as the toilet/sink wall so we could line up the accent tile and make a convenient shower shelf.

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